Breakfast is medialunas, which are basically sweeter, glazed croissants but adjusted to be a little more dessert-like than what you’d find in France. You’ll also see chipá, which are small, super chewy cheese breads made from cassava flour (Argentina and Paraguay push and they’re insanely good.

Then there are alfajores, I have had growing up which I honestly thought were full-on desserts but are more like a snack there. They’re two soft cookies sandwiched with dulce de leche, sometimes coated in chocolate, sometimes powdered sugar, and they’re everywhere - bakeries, kiosks, even gas stations.

Dulce de leche itself shows up everywhere - it’s basically a thick caramel made from slowly cooked milk and sugar, and it’s in everything from cakes to flan to ice cream. They put it on toast in the morning and do not have peanut butter or any type of similar item. Flan is also really common, a simple baked caramel custard brought over from Spanish influence, usually served with dulce de leche on top in Argentina which makes it way richer than the classic version.

Lunch and dinner is where you get more of the savory side. Empanadas are great - baked or fried pastry pockets with fillings like beef, chicken, or even blue cheese and onion, which I didn’t expect to like but was actually incredible. Milanesa is another staple, breaded and fried meat (very Italian influence), and one of the most popular versions is milanesa napolitana, which has tomato sauce, ham, and melted cheese on top. I had this at Preferido and Park Hyatt Palacio Duhau and it was honestly one of the best simple meals.

Choripán, which is basically grilled chorizo sausage in bread. And of course asado culture, which is Argentina’s version of a long grill-centered meal built around beef, chorizo, vegetables, blood sausage (ahhh) and is a large part of their long lunch culture that is focused mostly on a Sunday BBQ filled with families, friends, and anyone else joining. Argentina has so much cattle production that beef is a constant and that also connects to why leather goods are such a big thing there.

Pizza is another surprise, because of the Italian influence, Buenos Aires has its own style of pizza that’s thicker, heavier on cheese, and very different from what you’d expect. They even had an onion pizza that my sister would have died for. Just onion cheese and bread. Gelato again tied back to Italian immigration and how deeply that culture stuck. Of course theres about 5+ types of Dulce de Leche flavors.

On the drink side, Malbec is the main wine - a deep, thick red that Argentina basically perfected after French grapes adapted really well to the climate. And then there’s Fernet con Coca, which is a very bitter herbal Italian liquor mixed with Coca-Cola that somehow became a national drink. It tastes good for a second then gets an odd taste but the girls I went out with all grow fond of it. Could not forget the infamous Mate that is a herbal leaf with hot water you drink with a loved one. It was so strong for me but fun to experience.

Now that you just took a history class you can have the spots to keep on your Buenos Aires hit list :)

Palermo

Presidente Bar – speakeasy-style cocktail bar

Acido - Cocktail Bar

Anafe – modern, tasting-menu feel

Moshu – all-day pastry and café with a beautiful garden space

El Preferido de Palermo – iconic Argentine comfort food spot, shows up in every guide for a reason (an Argentine friend took me here and it fully lived up to it)

El Purgatorio – casual drinks / “sips” spot

Oli Café – brunch, pastries, coffee

Recoleta

La Florería Atlántico – hidden speakeasy-style cocktail bar, very well-known

Rodi Bar – classic Argentine staple/old-school feel

Rapa Nui – famous gelato/ice cream spot

Retiro

Acuario Bar – my favoirteeeee cool interiors and design

Comité 357 – industrial-style space with pop-ups, art, and rotating activations. second favoriteeee

El Legado Piano Bar – piano bar with live pianist around 10pm, classic late-night vibe

Invernadero – outdoor garden-style bar with heavy greenery and atmosphere

San Telmo

Atis Bar – relaxed bar in a historic neighborhood

Villa Crespo

Dimi Bar – fun cocktail bar (closing soon for good), run by an American owner; new concept “Ambar” opening in Recoleta

Chui – vegetarian, casual, open-kitchen concept (also has a Mexico City location)

Lardito – small plates, intimate dining, more low-key neighborhood spot

Must-See Sites

Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires (MALBA) – modern Latin American art museum; very well-curated and an easy stop

San Isidro Villa Ocampo – about 45 minutes outside the city; quieter, more residential/coastal feel, good half-day escape to visit Villa Ocampo which was the old home of Victoria Ocampo (writer/intellectual). Wish I went but I will be back

La Boca – colorful, tourist-heavy but still a must-see for Caminito

Plaza de Mayo – historic political center of the city, surrounded by key government buildings

San Telmo Market – antiques, food stalls, and weekend energy; best for wandering

Bosques de Palermo – massive park system, good for walking, biking, or a reset afternoon

Shops

Fueguia 1833 – high-end niche perfume house

Mercado de San Telmo Antiques Market – vintage + antique shopping in San Telmo on Sundays

Panorama - Local designers and gorgeous clothes

Calle Thames – great street for independent shopping and local designers

Casa Fagliano – leather store

Read my other Argentina Thoughts…

Neighborhoods of Buenos Aires

Day Trip from Buenos Aires

Tours in Buenos Aires - but not the boring ones

Impression of Buenos Aires

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My favorite museum in the world was the Newseum in DC (RIP, also devastating it was free). I was obsessed with it. They had a Unabomber exhibit with a replica of his cabin, stories from journalists, old newspapers, pieces of history that actually felt alive instead of behind glass. I could not get enough.

So I think somewhere along the way I started realizing there is a difference between being talked at and experiencing a place through someone who genuinely knows it.

When I travel for myself, I usually lean pretty unstructured. Walk around. Shop. Eat. Maybe book one “must see” thing and call it a day which has gotten me pretty far. But entering the travel industry completely changed the way I see experiences. Because the right guide or local connection does not feel like school. It feels like access and it made sense how people travel for access and want rigid arrangements planned so far in advance.

Japan was probably the first trip where I traveled with a really intentional, experience-driven itinerary instead of just loosely wandering. And honestly it changed everything for me. Part of that comes with comfortability, contacts, and access, but it also comes from realizing how much richer travel becomes when you let people who actually live somewhere show it to you. I had been on a trip with a tour company called Beauty of Japan so another access forward contact that I use for assistance for the access tours.

While I was in Buenos Aires, on what felt like a sabbatical even though I was still very much working, I got to experience two of their access tours firsthand through a company I work with in South America called Glove Travel. The company was started by Ivan, who is from Buenos Aires and built Glove after years of backpacking and traveling throughout Europe and South America. They specialize in Argentina, Chile, Uruguay, and Antarctica and the whole idea behind the company is creating trips that feel personal instead of copy-paste tourism which sounds like just a slogan but let me tell you it is true. A lot of their team actually lives in the destinations they plan around, which makes sense because the entire thing really revolves around insider access, local connections, and experiences you probably would never find on your own. Shoutout Josefina, Delfina, Paula, Mariana, Ornella, Lucelia, and everyone else involved <3

The first experience with Glove was a food tour with one of the best guides (Lucelia) I have ever met. She somehow connected everything happening in present day Buenos Aires to history from hundreds of years ago without ever sounding like a textbook. The color on walls in San Telmo, the way empanadas are folded, architecture, immigration, politics, every tiny observation had a story attached to it while just staying calm and conversational. She has incredible schooling and has it down.

And it was just me and her walking around for the day eating empanadas in San Telmo Market (the blue cheese one… insane), dulce de leche, gelato, coffee, pastries.

At the end I told her it genuinely just felt like I spent the day with a friend who happened to know everything.

The second experience put on by Glove (and Lares with is a Uruguay focused tour company) was called “Evening with Locals,” which honestly sounds slightly corporate on paper but ended up being one of my favorite nights of the trip.

Incase I had not mentioned this I was in Buenos Aires for Emotions, a tourism conference connecting Latin American travel suppliers with advisors. Usually dinners during these events happen at restaurants, but this one was hosted inside someone’s actual home in Palermo and it was invite only. So very curated!

I received an invite saying “A Dinner with Locals” and remember putting the address into maps and being confused because no restaurant came up. Then realizing: oh. We are literally being invited into someone’s home!

There was a private chef passing appetizers throughout the night, wine by a winemaker with vineyards in Mendoza who was actually there to chat, live music mixed with Salsa dancing, people sitting around talking for hours. And the really amazing part is that Glove can actually organize experiences like this for travelers too as an experience. They intentionally connect guests with locals based on shared interests, art, photography, architecture, journalism, food, whatever it may be and they will invite their friends to the night for travelers & locals.

Buenos Aires is such a creative city and the people I met there were so open to sharing it. Not in a performative hospitality way either. They genuinely wanted conversation. To teach you things and also learn from you too.

And then there is the experience I didn’t even get to do but have not stopped thinking about since. At the locals only dinner I met one of Glove’s partners who does shopping and art experiences. Which, if I am being honest, is something I always thought sounded unnecessary. Shopping is usually a solo sport for me. But hearing her explain it completely changed my perspective and I will be actively going to plan a shopping tour. Ornella is her name and she connects with travelers beforehand to understand their style, interests, what they are looking for, and then builds an entire day around it using her network throughout the city. Private showrooms, local designers, apartment studios you would never find on your own, pieces already pulled in your size.

And honestly that part fascinated me because I noticed in Buenos Aires that so many stores are hidden inside residential buildings. I would literally stand outside wondering if I was entering someone’s apartment.

She also expands into food and cultural experiences if you gravitate towards that type of tour and has built this incredible community around recommendations in Buenos Aires. She actually used to be a lawyer and during Covid started an Instagram account posting places that were still open because everyone was collectively losing their minds indoors. Now she is known for discovering new openings, menus, designers, all of it.

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That is the thing I keep thinking about lately: travel is obviously about the moments you stumble into accidentally. The random café. The perfect street. The afternoon that unfolds on its own. But it is also about people and my favorite takeaways from my recent trips were the friends I made.

It was so wild seeing a place through someone who actually knows it. Someone who can contextualize what you are looking at, introduce you to people you never would have met, or open a door you would have walked right past. There is real value in investing in those experiences while traveling. Honestly maybe more value than the hotel sometimes. So all in all when a travel advisor asks you if you are interested in experiences you say yes and pay up. It is worth it peopleeeeeee.

Xo

Coco

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This solo trip of mine is built around a Latin America-focused tradeshow at the end of April - three days, all in Buenos Aires meeting hotels, tour companies, agents, and countless of people discussing Latin America tourism. The company behind it, Emotions Travel Show, has been on my radar for a while mostly because of how they produce their events. I originally followed them just from an event/design standpoint when I was at Rafanelli Events, and then kept hearing it’s a really strong one for newer or early-stage advisors once I transitioned into the Travel Agent role - very curated, social, not intimidating in the way some of these things can be apparently.

I didn’t even know the list of suppliers until last week, which is pretty usual I guess and honestly did not mind at all because no matter what I was going to learn. The style, the people they attract, the destinations they choose, it all aligns and have even discovered new spots just from reading over the list. Shoutout Barracuda, Itacare. Will be there in May.

So Total trip is 10 nights.
8 of those are Buenos Aires (2 nights surrounding areas) before the show.

Which I know sounds like a lot for one city, but I didn’t want to rush through it or treat it like a quick stop since I will be working for half of it and also heard what a great city to shop, walk, tour, and spend time in. There are so many things I want to do and will definitely be making a visit back.

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I will be staying at four different hotels, all near each other ish. Sadly, not staying in Palermo, which everyone absolutely loves, but planning to spend most of my time there from the looks of my google maps. It seems like the obvious hub for restaurants, shops, walking around. BE Jardin is the hotel in the area I would have loved to but they didn’t have any rooms open since it is so small and historic. It is a 7 room townhouse that was started by filmmaker Francis Ford Coppola and he lived there while filming Tetro.

Restaurant-wise, Don Julio came up in every conversation. Every single one and to call out their meat/steak quality. To the point where I almost didn’t want to go, but obviously still will have yet to make a reservation and instead went for a Michelin Vegetarian spot called Chui that I am geeked for. Also just saw they’re opening Don Julio in NYC, which tracks for the buzz of BA! Logistics were surprisingly easy. Flight is overnight direct from NYC - EZE, one hour time change, very straightforward. I think I expected it to feel more complicated than it did so I am truly excited to show my world what this trip would look like for them!

Planning this trip turned into a much bigger rabbit hole than I expected as I originally was only going a few days before to visit Buenos Aires then one night I realized I am not taking advantage of life so it spiraled into a week + trip and from then I have learned so much about flight routes, potential visits to places, and how to spend a week in South America right.

A lot of it was Substack, Instagram, and conversations, but honestly my manager (she’s from Colombia and travels a lot) was probably the most helpful. She plans big, like not obvious routes, and kept pushing me to think beyond just Buenos Aires + one add-on or honestly 2-3 but make it worth it. Which is how I ended up with a very long list of places that didn’t make it into this version of the trip but absolutely will at some point.

Vik Chile
This was the closest to happening. But I realized I didn’t want to half-do Chile. It feels like somewhere you go and actually commit to, not tack onto something else just because it’s “close enough.” You would fly into Santiago, Chile direct then either stay a night (do not really recommend) or just transfer straight to Vik Chile for 2-3 hours. Once you arrive your stay is fully inclusive with meals, wine tasting, activities, and poolside relaxing in the outdoors. It overlooks the Andes mountains and has insane architecture elements. HIGHHH on my future trips.

Estancias (outside Buenos Aires)
I went back and forth on this a lot on which to focus on. The idea of doing countryside, horses, long lunches, Gaucho experiences was truly one of a kind. There are a variety to visit near and far from Buenos Aires. Some on my mind but did not close on were :

Estancia Don Joaquin

El Colibri Estancia De Charme

Estancia Villa Maria

I did end up booking a different estancia experience stay tuned because I have told everyone and their mothers basically but truly won’t be able to believe it till I arrive.

Salta
This felt like the deep end. Everything I read and heard made it sound incredible but also not something to rush into on a first Argentina trip. More remote, less developed, more of a commitment. A substack writer visited here for several days and wrote really incredible stories of meeting locals.

Uruguay
This was a real contender that it is safe to say will happen but it won’t be solo and that it will be better spent from friends or family.

I would have taken a ferry from Buenos Aires to Colonia (might still do it for a day thing if I have time), then drive to Montevideo (stay 1 night Hotel Montevideo), then José Ignacio where I could stay at 2 of VIK properties (the one hotel group that has a spot in Chile). They have one by the beach Playa Vik and one more inland called Estancia Vik. They are so design forward but also right by the beach and has a laid back culture. Very interested in it. I did notice it was semi difficult to get back to NYC from there but travels travel.

Mendoza
Everyone’s favorite. And I get it from my research!

Places like The Vines Resort & Spa and Casa de Uco Vineyards & Wine Resort are the must do spot. But it also felt like the most obvious choice, and logistically it wasn’t the easiest add-on.

At one point I had an unreasonable number of tabs open (don’t even know the number, it was aggressive), and the list just kept growing. And I haven’t even started the actual trip yet! Adios!

Xo

Coco

All ideas were well received, but he immediately said “Omakase,” and then his job was done. Now mine began, and I ultimately went straight to ~ ~ because there is no one else I would trust for this type of meal…

Helena gave me five thorough options, varying by location, type (sushi, kaiseki, etc.), and price point. She sent her top three along with two additional options for consideration, which is always helpful. I went through each one, but after reading the first sentence of her top recommendation — “Omakase spot from the Rosella team” — it was pretty much game over for the other four contenders.

To begin, Rosella is a sushi spot in Alphabet City that is more than just somewhere to stop in. It’s an intimate space with all bar seating, except for a lucky four-top in the front. Reservations are hard to come by, but befriending the team is easy - everyone is incredibly friendly and genuinely excited for you to be there. I highly recommend going with one other person and having the team curate a menu from start to finish. They give a great synopsis of the wines, fish, rice, vegetables, bowls, and just about everything else you could wonder about in terms of origin or story so have your questions ready. Truly, the best avocado roll I’ve ever had is from there. It’s a place I’m hesitant to tell people about because it’s that good and so community-forward. I told my brother this is a spot that if you took someone on a date then they’d be 10+ points ahead before you meet them…

That brings me to my meal at Bar Miller — ta da. It’s their omakase counter around the block, with eight seats and two 2.5-hour seatings per night, and it comes at a price worrrrth it. Book a reservation and you’ll find out - you prepay, so it feels “free” by the time you arrive.

We chose the 6:00 PM seating, which began with a cozy greeting from TJ (MVP of the night). You can reserve the wine pairing so absolutely no decisions are required, or you can order from a drink menu of wine, sake, and beer. We started with a glass of wine and transitioned to sake for the final dishes.

The chef was engaging, easy to talk to, and clearly excited for the oohs and aahs (from me, lol). That’s something omakase can sometimes lack, which can make you feel slightly out of your element. The meal began with seafood-forward, cooked dishes — soups and warm plates — and then transitioned into the sushi portion, ending with an incredible dessert topped with caviar (???). I watched him mix the sushi rice with a delicious sauce beforehand, and you could taste that soaked rice in every bite — such an incredible flavor addition.

At the end, you can add any extra pieces of sushi or simply cruise through to dessert. Each guest leaves with a bag containing the menu and a travel-sized soy sauce (I am preserving mine forever). I can confidently say it was one of the best experiences — and meals — I’ve had. It’s competing with an auberge experience I had in Japan, which is hard to beat (especially when I tried Bear for the first time).

They also have a Rosella in Kennebunk, Maine, so I might be headed there next. I’m slightly concerned about my new interest in tasting menus — it may only go downhill (for my wallet) from here.

Other restaurants on my radar:

Blue Hill — They have a farm in Westchester where I once planned a wedding, but there’s also a smaller restaurant in Greenwich Village serving fresh produce nightly.

Frevo — A very cool concept in Greenwich Village, hidden behind an art installation, for a special-occasion tasting menu night.

Musket Room — I love the badass sisters behind Musket Room, Raf’s, and Cafe Zaffri, so this is overdue.

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XO!

Lanzarote feels like the cooler, more design-forward option and basically I have geeked out on since Condé Nast posted about it in 2024. I remember I posted a 2024 story of the Lanzarote hotel I am spotlighting on my by Coco B Instagram with not a clue of where it was but an obsession with the green tile design.

Overall Lanzarote Island is known for volcanic landscapes, wineries, and really cool independent boutique hotels. January weather is great and can be cooler ( 66–70°F during the day), which makes it ideal for hiking, wine tasting, and exploring. The island has a very raw, high-design feel since it’s covered with black lava fields and newer architecture/design builds.

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So all in all as for Lanzarote my favorite stay is Cesar Lanzarote. It’s basically an artist’s residence turned boutique hotel with just 20 rooms in the countryside (10 minutes from Puerto del Carmen downtown). Very opposite of a resort feel with unique decor, intimate energy, a perfect sunset terrace for drinks and bites. There is a known restaurant, bar, pool, and spa for the whole package.

They also have their own vineyards and wine production on site you can do tasting at. You would rent a car here to explore all around town.

Things to do around the island (very January-coded):

Explore Timanfaya National Park

Visit Papagayo Beaches

Hike volcanic trails

Horseback riding

Wine tastings

Yoga / Biking

Where to eat near Cesar Lanzarote:

Restaurant Palacio Ico – Michelin Guide-listed, part of a small boutique hotel; great for a more elevated dinner

La Cabana Macher – Cozy, just five minutes away, opened in 2022 and known as a top local spot

Bodega de Uga – Very authentic, freshly cooked fish, perfect for lunch

Kamezi Deli & Bistro – Outdoor seating and tasting menu, worth the drive

So to conclude Tenerife is polished and resort-y. Lanzarote, especially Cesar, is unique, artsy, and you’ll start seeing it more. If you want a January trip that feels warm without feeling like you’re doing the run of the mill, do this & take me with you <3

Have you been???

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Xo

Coco

Siwa is surrounded by date palms, salt lakes, and sand dunes that look and feel untouched, mostly because they kind of are. Ecolodges are your best friend here. The place people talk about staying is Adrère Amellal which is an eco-lodge built entirely from salt rock and mud brick. Sooo something to keep in mind is the fact there is no electricity, no Wi-Fi, no mirrors, just candlelight after sunset and total quiet.

Getting there isn’t hard, just a commitment and visiting Siwa won’t happen naturally - it’s an 8 hour straight shot from Cairo. Stays usually run around ~ $900 a night depending on season and room, and the rate usually includes meals (everything is cooked on-site). Visit March - May or October- November or youll be in the scorching heat.

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You’d go for 2 nights and visit the salt lakes, sandbar in the Sahara, visit the Mountain of the dead, dip in natural springs, and an abundance more of outdoor sites. The salt lakes are known to be crystal clear with incredible artisans and locals around to meet around town.

Also fun tid bit is Peter Beard, who was a famous American photographer (for African animals specifically) now has a dedicated museum in Siwa that opened Nov 25.

Siwa Oasis is definitely not a “do everything”visit. It’s more of a reset your nervous system and stare at the horizon kind of place in the dark lol. But bucket list and out of the ordinary approved….

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